Tuesday, 27 December 2016

Spanking the Devil in Hong Kong

On my walk today I came across one of Hong Kong's strange relics, a piece of Guandong folk sorcery called 'Da Siu Yan,' otherwise known as 'beating the petty little people' or demon exorcism. Guandong is one of China's 23 provinces, the one abutting Hong Kong.


At first, I thought it was just one of these media jamborees that Hong Kong folk enjoy; under the Canal Road Flyover between Causeway Bay and Wan Chai there seemed to be quite a fuss going on, bright TV lights, two cameramen with shoulder-held video cameras and several passers-by excitedly snapping the scene on their cellphones.


As I got closer it was clear that three TV channel celebrities - a well-know actress and two younger TV presenters - were doing a piece on Da Siu Yan.




Under the flyover were several altars with statues, food offerings and bowls of incense, each attended by an elderly lady. Apparently, these ladies specialise in ritually expelling demons by using a shoe to hit a person-shaped piece of paper bearing the name and details of the demon (someone you dislike) or group of demons (a group of people that you dislike...maybe parking enforcement attendants or people who talk loudly on mobile phones on public transport...).


Anyway, as the client, you give the details to one of these nice old ladies, hand over your money and then the beating starts.


Whack, whack, whack.

Actually, it's little more complicated...there are prayers, blessing, incense burning and candles, and, during Jingzhe in early Spring, you've got to feed the paper tigers...


 I've seen this ceremony several times, usually from a distance, but today I had to walk right by the women. And no, I didn't place an order; turning the other cheek is a much better approach.

Tuesday, 13 December 2016

The Curious Case of the Disappearing Hong Kong Bookshops


It’s a mystery, Holmes!

What is?

Why -  the case of the disappearing English-language bookshops in Hong Kong, of course.

Tell me more.

Well, there used to be lots of English-language retailers in Hong Kong, now there’s only a handful. Let me see: Swindon Book Company; Kelly & Walsh; Hong Kong Book Centre; Bookazine (10 small stores) and maybe I can include The Commercial Press branch in Causeway Bay (they are really a Chinese language book store but with a decent English book selection). That’s it!
Kelly & Walsh in an upscale shopping mall on HK Island
Hong Kong Book Centre - down the steps into the basement shop; Central
Bookazine - main branch in Prince's Building, Central
The Commercial Press, mainly in Chinese but with a large English section - Causeway Bay

Swindon Book Co in Kowloon side
 
The presumption is that there were previously more English-language bookshops?

Of course there were! Look, the Dymocks chain, an Australian franchise with 13 branches, closed down almost two years ago. Their bookshops were excellent, professionally run with an excellent range of magazines and books; they stocked the latest issues and promoted Asian writers too. Then there is Page One, a Singaporean group that owned three mega-stores, at Harbour City, Festival Walk and Times Square. They closed down a couple of months ago. They weren’t my favourite booksellers; while they carried huge stocks, customer service was sometimes lacking, books were occasionally misfiled and rarely displayed effectively.

I thought the  big Taiwanese bookseller, Eslite,  opened stores in Hong Kong recently?

Well yes, there are a handful of mega-stores now but Eslite is hardly a bookseller. Granted, the stores have 10,000+ books, most in Chinese language, but they also sell a lot of rubbish – boutique homemade jewellery, designer home wares, wine accessories, leather bags, organic products – expensive tosh.

Eslite - Tai Koo - describes itself as a 'bookstore'...ho hum!
You’re a little biased aren’t you, Watson?

I think a bookshop should just sell books, Holmes – maybe a decent cup of coffee while one is browsing - if that’s biased, then I’m biased.

And both Dymocks and Page One have closed down in the last couple of years?

Yes…but it’s even worse. The number of bookshops at Hong Kong Airport has also been drastically reduced. Page One and another company were granted a lease on 16 stores from 2009, now Page one has also lost its lease on its airport shops and the other company, Relay, is down to five shops…and, Holmes, you will not like this, a mainland company, Chung Hwa, will run five of the remaining ten.

Smell a rat do you?

Well, you have to wonder. There was all that kerfuffle last year with the booksellers who were allegedly kidnapped and ended up in mainland China. The airport bookshops often sold books that were very gossipy and salacious about the Chinese leadership…makes you wonder.

So, it’s all due to mainland censorship is it?

Do you have a better reason Holmes?

Tell me about the economic situation in Hong Kong just now.

Not good, I suppose. Retail sales are down, high street rents are down by up to 40% since the peak in fourth quarter 2013, there is slowing growth in China and the anti-corruption drive in mainland China shows no signs of slowing.

Even with the English-language bookshops that remain, they are reducing their stocks, not investing in as many new books. You know, I visited all the bookshops looking for the latest paperback by a Singaporean writer and ex-lawyer, Shamini Flint, and couldn’t find a copy. Just a couple of years ago most of the shops would have had a copy and several of her earlier works. Now, no one stocks her and there are very few new Asian writers supported.

Bookazine's flagship store on the top floor of Prince's Building in Central moved to a new location on the same floor in the last 12 months, one that is much smaller, the amount of books and magazines that they stock now is less than half the amount they had 12 months ago. The 'flagship' store has become a sampan store.

Do you notice anything in the streets, when you walk about, compared to, say, our last visit one year ago?

Well, there’s many fewer tourists. Westerners definitely, but also mainlanders; there used to be lots of them everywhere - do you remember the big crocodiles of mainland tourists with the leader holding an umbrella or flag at the front? Even the little entrepreneurs, the men and women who bought cheap stuff for resale back in China, they used to squat outside the stores and stuff their huge suitcases for the journey back across the border.

And did you notice any difference in the types of stores that you see now in the luxury shopping malls?

Now that you mention it – yes I did. I mean there are fewer restaurants and food outlets, more high end retailers of jewellery, watches, high end fashion brands. I suppose they can afford the rents. They say that while retail shop rents are falling, the rents in luxury malls are being maintained – just!

Maybe it’s become too expensive for booksellers?

What about alternative forms of consumption?

What do you mean, Holmes?

Do people just read books and just buy them in shops?

Well no…that’s good thinking, Holmes. You’re right you know! Everyone is on their smartphone now. I’ve never seen so many people using smartphones, they’re looking at them all the time, everywhere. I suppose they are also reading news…and articles, books even. Maybe they are ordering books on the internet too? Yes, of course they must be. And there are lots of free newspapers given away in the early morning by these old ladies who stand at the entrances on the MTR stations.

What about the use of English in Hong Kong?

Now, that’s definitely falling. Fewer people speak it, or speak it well; go into the big shops now and the priority is Mandarin or Japanese. In fact, although Chinese and English are the two official languages of Hong Kong under Basic Law, they tell me that more people speak Putonghua than English now. I suppose it makes sense with the shortage of Western tourists too. After all, this is a Chinese city, about 95% speak Chinese and only 3.5% speak English so perhaps it’s no surprise it no longer supports a lot of English-language bookshops, especially when the economy is suffering.

Hey! Maybe that’s why the number of English-language bookshops is falling? How did you work that out Holmes?

It’s elementary my dear Watson! I believe you will also find that the successful bookshops are those that have a longstanding agreement to supply textbooks to local schools and colleges; that makes them especially resilient in a downturn…yes, it’s quite elementary.

Wednesday, 7 December 2016

Hymn to Hong Kong

The last six months have been quite demanding, mainly due to a variety of voluntary jobs that seemed to expand to fill all my spare time until something had to give – and that was this blog.

However, two days ago, around 6.00 am and almost 12 hours out from London, my Cathay Pacific flight began to descend towards Hong Kong. Ahead, the darkness was being beaten back by the pale gold and red of the sun as it began to rise over the South China Sea. The engines throttled back and at 10,000 feet we could make out the shape of islands far below us and the vastness of the water ahead.

There’s always something almost magical about approaching Hong Kong. It’s a mixture of eager anticipation and happy memories, as well as the knowledge that only rest and pleasure stretch ahead. There will be new and exotic experiences, the warmth of the welcoming family and lots to explore in this place of incredible materialism and competition, where constant growth and novelty generate winners and losers in the competition to succeed and live well.   
   
Driving into the city from the airport in our Alphard MPV (a Toyota marque built for use in Japan but exported to a handful of countries including Hong Kong) was a slightly surreal experience. We swept smoothly along the highway in a cocoon of grey as the heavy mist hid much of the surrounding hills; it was only as we approached Kowloon on the elevated road that the sun began to burn away the greyness and to our right we saw glimpses of the blue sea with a sprinkling of small islands and ships far below. Then we swept into the concrete canyons of the outskirts, with offices, apartments blocks and shops all around us, past the barriers and dipped down into the Western Cross-harbour Tunnel to pop up shortly after in our Hong Kong Island destination.

Later that day, I made the usual pilgrimage to Victoria Harbour, just to get a feel for life in the city. As usual, the Harbour was busy, the green and white Star Ferries criss-crossing the water, an occasional ferry brightly decorated, the Aqua Luna sailing junk pottering about and a large cruise ship moored to Harbour City Ocean Terminal.  Across the water, the buildings of Hong Kong Island reared up from the water, strangely insubstantial, grey-blue and indistinct in the haze.





Today, I thought I’d take the pulse of the city, see what’s on its mind. After all, there is much to be concerned about globally; for example, America’s scary President-Elect; post-Brexit worries about the effect of elections in Austria and Italy; a pending impeachment in South Korea, and the imminent rise in US interest rates…

In Hong King, it is the gay lions.

In front of the HSBC Bank headquarters in Central are sculptures of two bronze lions, Stephen and Stitt. They were placed there in 1935 when the building opened and are a local landmark, representative of the excellent feng shui enjoyed by the building. They proudly bear the scars of shrapnel holes dating from the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong in 1941.




Recently, Stephen and Stitt have been joined by another pair of lions, also called Stephen and Stitt – but multi-coloured and ‘gay’ – that were placed at the opposite side of the bank as part of HSBC’s ‘Celebrate Pride, Celebrate Unity’ campaign. As the plaque puts it, ‘the design uses thick rainbow-coloured bars, creating a bold statement of LGBT (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender and Intersex) pride.


The city is divided as a result. On one side there are many young people who support moves for anti-discrimination laws for LGBT people, 91% of a recent sample poll who were aged 18-24 spoke in favour, and a recent Pride support march attracted 7,000 people.
On the other side, several campaign groups have organised a petition against the gay lions with 4,500 people signed up so far. They argue that the iconic lions have been improperly hijacked to ‘trample family values’ in Hong Kong and project meanings that a lot of people disagree with.

While Hong Kong has laws prohibiting discrimination on the grounds of gender, disability, race and family values, there are none preventing discrimination on the grounds of sexual orientation. That may be about to change, but, while the numbers of people in favour of changing the law are increasing, they still face considerable opposition, including the older, more traditional Hong Kongers, reminiscent of the same divisions in society that were exposed by the youth-led Umbrella Movement demonstrations of 2014.


As with the waters in the Victoria Harbour, there may be choppy times ahead. 

Sunday, 29 May 2016

Unseen City, Strange & Familiar

This week has been mercifully quiet so I treated myself to two photographic exhibitions in London. The first was the highly-rated Strange & Familiar at the Barbican Art gallery, the work of 23 international photographers, working in the UK from the 1930s to date, who each give a fascinating insight into Britishness. This exhibition was curated by Martin Parr, a well-known documentary photographer. Some of his own work is on display at the Guildhall Art Gallery in an exhibition called Unseen City and that was the second one that I visited.

London was its usual heaving self, the underground system was fairly busy…


 …but there were some classy buskers!


First, a word about the Barbican. The Barbican Estate is an unlovely desert of bleak high-rise housing blocks built during the 1960s and 1970s in the area north of St Paul’s Cathedral, an area that was devastated by Luftwaffe bombs during World War 2. The architecture is (fittingly) classified as ‘brutalist.’ It has few redeeming features but does contain, on the periphery, the Barbican Arts Centre, where the exhibition was held, and the Guildhall School of Music and Drama, oases of culture in a wasteland of concrete cells.



It is virtually impossible to avoid getting lost in the Barbican. While signposting has improved considerably, the authorities continue to throw up concrete battery cages for humans and close off whole sections at will.
I had to take directions from the dancing couple…


 …and the jolly golden giant who pointed the way towards the Barbican Arts Centre.


Rant over.

The Barbican Arts Centre is at the edge of Barbican Estate and has a plaza in front of it, fountains and even a small lake. Oasis indeed.


The Strange & Familiar exhibition is on two floors and comprises several hundred prints by 23 overseas photographers, most of them in monochrome. The usual clichéd images are there; top hats and bowlers, posed postmen and grimy miners, street waifs and elderly sun worshippers, Swinging 60s etc. There’s nothing wrong with that when it’s well done, but there is much more to enjoy, to contemplate, to worry over, to be amazed at, to be bemused by or to be appalled at. The whole of life is there, much of it unfamiliar – the past is indeed another country – and quite a lot that stirs up memories and resonates, some that you will happily pass by, but all of it reflects some aspect of Britishness momentarily captured and preserved by foreigners with cameras.     

Here’s a few of my favourites (photograph-taking was banned and there were alert monitors in each room to prevent any surreptitious attempts!):

Frenchman Henri Cartier-Bresson, the master of candid photography, was invited to photograph the coronation of George VI in the mid-1930s but mostly turned his camera on the crowd instead. I love his candid portraits of the British determined to enjoy themselves despite adverse conditions; there is a tremendous downpour at Ascot, most of the spectators have gone but one determined elderly man sits on, a sodden newspaper plastered to his head, at peace with himself.

Another French photographer, Raymond Depardon, photojournalist and filmmaker, was asked to photograph Glasgow, one of the major European cities that had fallen on hard times. This was in the 1980s before Glasgow’s slogan was ‘smiles better’ and before it was renowned as a city of culture. This is a dark, brooding city of tenement blocks, leaden skies, waif-like children and booze-sodden denizens. Some of Depardon’s images are marvellously artful in the subtle use of touches of colour as counterpoint – the subdued pink of a girl’s dress for example. This is the Glasgow that I knew well and had almost banished from memory.  

A very different perspective is provided by Dutch photographer Hand van der Meer’s photographs of amateur football matches. The huge swathes of sky and lush green fields remind one of early Dutch painting, while also being current and very English.

Japanese war photographer Akihiko Okamura spent much time in Ulster in the 1980s during the ‘Troubles,’ even taking his family to live there so that he could concentrate on his work of documenting the province. It’s all there; the marches and the reaction to them, religion and violence, ugly tribalism and shallow posturing. If nothing else, it reminds us what we’ve hopefully left behind.  

Finally, at the exit, there are some huge-size portraits by Bruce Gilden, the American street photographer, made in 2011 and 2014. The style can be summarised as ‘up close and personal.’ Here are sitters’ faces with stubble, warts, broken capillaries, poor teeth, blotches, mascara and foundation applied by trowel, rheumy-eyed…as Robbie once put it ‘O wad some Power the giftie gie us. To see oursels as ithers see us!’

Highly recommended.

Then it was on to the Guildhall, London’s Town Hall, built in the 15th century.


Attached to it is the Guildhall Art Gallery, built in 1999 to replace a building destroyed by the Luftwaffe in 1941. When they were digging the foundations for it they came across medieval pottery - and the remains of a Roman amphitheatre almost 2,000 years old.


The Gallery houses Martin Parr’s Unseen City. Martin is a member of the Magnum collective and, since 2013, has been the City of London’s photographer-in-residence and is uniquely placed to capture the pomp and ceremony, the centuries-old traditions, banquets, processions and so on.  

At the entrance to the exhibition is a sign ‘Photography Allowed.’ Well done!


Let some of the photos speak for themselves…









On the way back I popped in to St Mary-le-Bow Church, famous for the Bow Bells. (According to tradition, a true Cockney must be born within earshot of the Bow Bells).


The church on this site has been destroyed and re-built several times, most famously after the London Tornado of 1091, the Great Fire of 1666 and the Luftwaffe in 1941.



It is quite sumptuous inside and one of the unusual features was the presence of two pulpits. Do they have vicars in each of them? One proposing a view, the other opposing it - or is it a form  of clerical stereo?


The church and Guildhall are only a few minutes from St Paul’s Cathedral, the late 17th century creation of Sir Christopher Wren. I did contemplate going in but the £16 entry fee was excessive for the 40 minutes I had available. Another time.  

   

Friday, 29 April 2016

Worth Abbey and the Induction Mass of A&B's Director of Education

I was at Worth Abbey yesterday for the Induction Mass of Marie Ryan as Director of the Education Service of Arundel & Brighton Diocese. The Abbey is home to a community of Benedictine monks and is adjacent to the beautiful Worth School, a premier boarding and day school of almost 600 students set in several hundred green acres. Lucky students!

The Abbey Church, a wigwam-like structure, was opened in the early 1970s and I remember it for two things: because of the design, it is tricky for photography, with some gloomy areas and others pierced by sudden bursts of brilliant sunshine; the uncomfortable kneelers are wooden, in sympathy with the design of the seats which are curved to reflect the geometry of the church and made of black walnut and ash...impressive but not built for comfort. 

Outside, it was a chilly day with bright blue skies. Inside, it was warm and cheery, the monks, priests and deacons were gathering to process in, Bishop Richard Moth was on top form and there was an excited buzz from the congregation, mainly teaching staff, parents, governors, supporters and DABCEC education staff.

No more words, here's a few of my favourite photos of the day.











Monday, 4 April 2016

Wellspring Community

Today, on the Annunciation of the Lord, I was privileged to attend Mass at St Joseph’s Church in Brighton, where the Wellspring Community received a decree recognising it as a Private Lay Association of the Faithful within Arundel & Brighton Diocese.

 
St Joseph’s is a lofty Victorian Gothic building near the city centre. It is situated in Elm Grove - one of the few remaining areas of uncontrolled (free) parking in the city centre, consequently parking can be extremely hard to find – but not today, deo gratias.

 

As I entered the small choir was rehearsing – and they were outstandingly good. Chief celebrant was our Bishop, Richard Moth, with the Abbot of Worth Abbey, Dom Luke Jolly,  Canon Kieron O’Brien, Parish Priest, and several other priests and brothers in attendance.


In his homily Bishop Richard linked today’s liturgical celebration of the Annunciation, when the BV Mary said ‘yes’ not knowing where it would lead but trusting in the Lord’s goodness, with the similar commitment made by the lay members of the Wellspring Community, under the guidance of God’s Spirit.

He paid tribute to the work of Worth Abbey in forming the Wellspring Community, which operates under the Rule of St Benedict. Living a common life of prayer and service, the members witness to the Kingdom of God in the city of Brighton, rooting their daily life in prayer, Scripture and the sacraments.

Practically, they are involved in teaching and preaching the Faith, youth work, school chaplaincy, retreat work, prisoner befriending, running a weekly prayer group for students and young adults, as well as hosting a Sunday lunch. They certainly have lots of energy!

 


Finally, Bishop Richard read out the formal decree and presented it to Jo Gilbert, leader of the Community. The Liturgy of the Eucharist then followed.
 
 
After Mass ended, the Bishop, religious and clergy joined members of the Community for a group photograph, leader Jo Gilbert holding the formal decree signed by Bishop Moth and by Fr Jonathan Martin, Chancellor and Vicar General.