Lourdes - Day Two

Day two began with continental breakfast in the sunny dining room. It promised to be a leisurely day with mass in the morning and then two separate photo sessions; one for the formal photo of all 800 Arundel & Brighton pilgrims before lunch, and then separate photos for each of the hotels after lunch, including Hotel Europe, which accommodates about 70 of the diocesan pilgrims. All being well, we were due leisure time between 3pm and 7pm, when dinner was scheduled back at the hotel.

David, our standard bearer, led the phalanx of Hotel Europe pilgrims to the Domain. The official diocesan photograph was taken, as usual, in front of the Rosary Basilica with its spires forming a regal backdrop. The sun blazed down and only at the last minute were umbrellas, sun hats and sunglasses discarded to reveal the pale and sweaty pilgrims beneath.    

Mass was held in the Church of Saint Bernadette, the same location as yesterday. Again, we were sat directly behind the deaf and hard of hearing group, and this time two new signers, Goretti and Penny, joined the ‘old hands’ in communicating the hymns and readings.

Taking the hotel photo was a swifter affair and then it was decision time; how do we spend the afternoon? The main option on offer was a tour of the town but it was rather hot and we were quite familiar with it so Goretti and I opted to wander around the domain. (A source told me that the first stop on the ‘tour of the town’ was an ice cream parlour and that pilgrims were quite willing to remain there for the duration of the tour…)

We explored The Crypt first. This was the first church built in response to the Blessed Virgin’s request and it was built on the rock directly above the Grotto, as can be seen from the photo below.

In fact, there are three churches built virtually on top of the Grotto. The first is the original one, the Crypt, consecrated in 1866, eight years after the apparitions, a dark sombre place with very thick walls and pillars. Next was the Upper Basilica, dedicated to the Immaculate Conception in the 1870s, perhaps best known for its gorgeous stained glass windows, with more than 30 distinct biblical and theological themes, each glowing with rich colours. However, even before building was finished, the Immaculate Conception Basilica proved too small for the host of pilgrims that converged on Lourdes. In 1901 the last of the three churches was consecrated. The Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary is a triumph of construction with its vast courtyard, sweeping arms, statues of saints, enormous gilt crown and cross (the gift of Irish pilgrims), the colourful mosaics on the façade illustrating the Mysteries of Light…and we have not even begun to talk about the interior, which is an absolute feast of mosaics.

After the churches, there was only one place to go that would be more imposing. We walked past the water taps and the candle selling points – priced at two-and-a-half Euros for the smallest up to 400 Euros for a 70Kg one – to the Grotto, the centre of it all, the reason for it all, the summary of it all.

Then we moved on, past the 20 or so candle stations with their flickering lights continuing their donors’ prayers, past the baths - open but under repair - to the bridge crossing the Gave de Pau river. We found it was roped off, too unsafe to cross after the flood damage.  

We retraced our steps and returned to the centre of the Domain, headed for the St Michael’s gate exit. Ahead of us were two very different symbols.

One, high on a hill, dominating the town of Lourdes, is an ancient castle that speaks of temporal but transient power.

The other is a bronze statue painted white and blue, standing in Rosary Square, and speaks of humility, obedience, love, peace, caring, the spiritual and the eternal.  

To end the day we went to the Museum of St Bernadette. It was extremely humid now, the skies dull and threatening. The museum was small but contained a good overview of the apparitions and the Saint’s life, as well as some of her personal effects. Apart from her catechism and some writings, what struck me most was a pair of her shoes; they looked good quality leather but well worn – and very small. Outside, the rain began to fall, heavy drops splashing on the pavement. We sat for a moment to absorb and ponder on how God sometimes choses the most unexpected messengers, then we headed into the rain and towards a stuffed veal dinner at the Hotel Europe.