Israel – Day Four – Tiberias

Tiberias, founded in Roman Times by one of Herod the Great’s sons, is mainly a Jewish city. In fact, it is one of Israel’s holy cities, home to many important rabbis and scholars including Moses ben Maimonides, the famous medieval Jewish philosopher - so there was no 4.30am call to prayer from the local mosque and I slept undisturbed until 6.30am.

Our first stop today was Mount Tabor, believed to be the ‘high mountain’ where Jesus was transformed and spoke with Moses and Elijah. Although it is only 550 metres high, it dominates the flat surrounding countryside, mainly the plain of Jezreel – better known as Armageddon.
By the time we arrived at the base of the mountain there were already 20-25 large coaches parked there. Coaches are not allowed to go up to the top of the mountain so we waited in queue for over an hour until we could board one of the fleet of minibuses that ferried passengers to the top. The journey to the top was along narrow zig-zag roads with precipitous drops of hundreds of feet as you neared the top: a great way to begin praying before arriving at the Basilica of the Transfiguration. Entry is through a stone archway, with nearby remains of defensive walls built by Josephus in the first century.

 

 

 

The Basilica is a fine building, solid-looking from the outside, visually stunning inside, with a glowing mosaic of the Transfiguration over the high altar and, below it, a long barrel vaulted crypt sanctuary with a beautiful stained glass window featuring peacocks, symbols of eternity. It is built on top of the ruins of a twelfth-century building  - which replaced successive buildings of the Seleucids, Jews, Romans, Crusaders, Byzantines, Saracens, Franks, Mamluks and others – the place reeks of history.

It was hot again and we wandered among the gardens and ruins, including a 12^th century Benedictine monastery. The countryside was spread out below us, including several villages and towns, a Moslem one just below us with a single mosque and in the distance, set on the top of a hill, the town of Nazareth.

 

I’m sure the ride down in the minibus was just as alarming as the journey up, but I’m not sure, my eyes were shut fast and I was praying continuously…(they tell me the last crash – with fatalities naturally – was five years ago).

Nazareth, Jesus’ childhood home, was much larger than I expected. It is a busy tourist site and the main attraction is the modern Basilica of the Annunciation, built over the cave where by tradition the Blessed Virgin Mary lived and where the angel Gabriel appeared to her. Our guide suggested it was the largest church in the Middle East and he also mentioned that Nazareth was the largest Arab city in Galilee.

 

As we approached there was a large group of Moslem men assembled and saying noon prayers in a public area very close to the Basilica.

 

I understand there has been tension between Muslims and Christians in the area in recent years with the Muslims wishing to build a mosque close to the Basilica. Certainly, the poster displayed there suggested that differences between the faiths are unresolved and still a local concern.

One thing that puzzled me so far is that, in all the historic churches we have visited to date, there was usually a souvenir stall (selling wooden carvings, metal rosaries, maps etc) but no distinctly Christian/Catholic literature for sale, for example, bibles, lives of saints, guides to practices such as the rosary, prayers etc. Is silence about Christian religious belief and practise the price of peaceful coexistence in this troubled land?  

 

 

The Annunciation Basilica was memorable for its design, in particular the contrast between the spacious symbol-laden cavernous lower church and the sunken Grotto of the Annunciation, the cave where ‘the Word became flesh,’ a very modest dwelling for the Mother of God.

Afterwards we visited the other churches including the Synagogue Church, built by the Crusaders on the foundations of Nazareth’s synagogue.

It’s hard to talk about the ‘highlight’ of the day when there were so many but the visit to Cana, just five miles north of Nazareth, where Jesus turned water into wine at the wedding, is special.  

 

Again, the Franciscan Church of the Wedding Feast is a relatively modern church (1879) built over the ruins of Byzantine and Crusader buildings. Inside, it is a simple church with a single nave, no windows and a domed sanctuary. But, in a pleasant surprise, we were led to the crypt chapel, a small but very atmospheric barrel vaulted place.

 

Fathers Mark and Ephraim co-celebrated Mass and included a special Renewal of Vows for three couples celebrating between 25 and 42 years of marriage. For a souvenir each couple received a certificate testifying to the renewal of their marriage promises, signed by Fr. Mark and the Fr. Guardian of the Cana Weddings Sanctuary Church.

 

Afterwards, we explored the archaeological treasures of the Church, including a first-century water ‘jug’ used for storing water at the time of the Cana wedding.

 

It is very substantial, much larger than the pitcher-sized jars I had assumed were involved; six such jars would hold a large quantity of wine.

Our guide also explained to us that the wedding would have been held in the synagogue, which functioned as a social centre for the village at that time (and only later because used exclusively for worship). And, guess what? In the basement of the Church were the excavated remains of part of the first-century synagogue of Cana.

 

 I don’t think it gets any better than that!   

A full day, a memorable day.