Medjugorje - Day Eight

This was the last day so we decided to re-visit the Risen Christ statue as, during our previous visit and attempts to visit, there was a sizeable queue of 12-40 people waiting to visit the statue.

This thirty-foot solid bronze statue has allegedly been weeping liquid since 2001 from the right leg, near the knee and, apparently, has now started weeping liquid from the left knee as well. Sometimes the liquid is water or oil-like, sometimes it appears like blood.

Canny shopkeepers now sell linen squares imprinted on one side with the face of the Blessed Virgin Mary – a bargain at 10 squares for one Euro. The idea is that you use a linen square to mop up some of this liquid. There are steps to enable people to reach right up to the relevant spot – worn a brighter colour and shiny after all the rubbing – indeed the long queues are made longer by people slowly using all their ten squares before moving on. Presumably they intend to give the squares to friends or relatives who are sick or injured.

As we waited G was convinced that she could see tiny drops of liquid emerging and being dabbed by the linen cloths of worshippers. As she mounted the steps and got even closer she was absolutely certain that two small drops emerged, one after the other in two separate but close areas near the knee. Me? I never saw any liquid at all, but then my eyesight is not 20/20, even with spectacles. We each went close and, after praying, dabbed the approximate area with a tissue (and when I inspected mine, I still couldn't see anything. Perhaps you need faith? after working as an auditor for 20 years my faith faculty is probably all shrivelled up).

The design of the sculpture is such that Christ seems to rise from a cross-shaped tomb, leaving a hollow in the cross/tomb where His body was. It is very effective. Pilgrims have placed many flowers, photographs of loved and sick ones and other mementos in the hollow of the cross. As always it is affecting, especially the photos of youngsters.

The other pilgrims had finished breakfast when G and I got back to the hotel but the nice serving staff provided bread, butter, juice, cereal and milk – and then cooked us each a special giant ham omelette.

We left at 11am by minibus for Split and were soon fortifying ourselves with the Glorious Mysteries of the Rosary. After an hour we stopped for a comfort break at the splendidly-named Hip-Hop fuel stop and café. Temperatures were in their 90s now and forecast to exceed 100 degrees in the following week.  Our guide was envious of departure for cool, wet England. I took the opportunity to ask her about relations between Croats and Bosniaks since there seemed to be underlying tension in Mostar. However, she felt that the sides were prepared to tolerate each other and maintain peace; 20 years after the war, its wounds were still raw and no-one was prepared to contemplate another war - especially since the economy had improved so much.

 

Strangely, prices in the café seemed to be three times higher than normal...it was only in the coach afterwards that I remembered that we were now in Croatia and had been confusing Bosnia-Herzegovina exchange rates with Croatian ones; I could have had a bar of chocolate rather than limiting myself to a bottle of lemon tea.

 

Split Airport was jam-packed with sun-worshippers and pilgrims. The check-in area was swamped so entry to the airport was restricted, however, we only waited 10 minutes or so before being allowed access to the check-in queue. Similarly the line for Customs held about 100-150 people and after a smooth transition through Passport Control we reached the departure lounge - to find no seats available. To pilgrims who have climbed Cross Mountain this was no more than a minor inconvenience and after a silent prayer and a wait of 20 minutes, seats materialised.

 

Now, all that is left is to summarise my feelings about the pilgrimage, no easy matter, it has been a hugely positive spiritual experience...but lingering doubts remain.