Thursday, 27 August 2015

Medjugorje – Day Five

We set off from the foot of Cross Mountain at 5.40am. No, it’s not a mistake, at 5.40am. Due to the heat of the day, high eighties to low nineties Fahrenheit (about low 30s Celsius) we began our climb as it was getting light, the crickets were chirping to welcome the dawn and the vendors’ shops were already open for business at the foot of the mountain.

According to the guide, the origin of the cross on the mountain is as follows. The people of Medjugorje Parish have always been poor, mainly subsistence farmers. In the late 1920s and early 1930s, due to several successive years of too little rain in summer and too much in winter, harvests were poor and thousands died from starvation. They approached the local Bishop with a plan to build a huge cross on top of their highest local mountain. This coincided with the Vatican requesting parishes worldwide to commemorate the 1,900th anniversary of Jesus’ death. When the Vatican heard of the plan for the cross, Pope Pius XI contributed a piece said to be from the original True Cross and this relic is contained in the crossbeams of the cross. Even the name of mountain was changed to Krizevac, meaning Cross Mountain.

The cross was constructed in 1933, it is over eight meters (or 27 feet) high, the mountain itself is 1,700 feet above sea level (although the base is already at a height of about 500 feet). In 1933 there was no heavy lifting machinery available so volunteers carried the sacks of cement and sand, the barrels of water, tools and the steel bars all the way up to the top. There is what is referred to as a path to the top today. There isn’t. A path is a smooth track and there is no such thing; only rocks, large and small, many jagged, some smooth, and an occasional patch of mud. What has been done is that the trees and shrubs have been removed for a width of six to ten feet in a zig-zag process meandering up the mountain side until the top. In 1933 they did not even have the benefit of such a ‘path.’    

 
There are bronze images of the 14 Stations of the Cross paced at equal distances all the way up to the top (plus a couple of extra ones and a memorial to Fr Barbaric).

 
We set off, G and I with climbing boots and poles, most of the grannies with a stout stick – while three men and a young lad went barefoot.
We adore you O Christ and we bless you

For by your Holy Cross you have redeemed the world.



Fr Martin led the prayers at each Station, ending with a beautiful rendering of ‘Were You There when they Crucified my Lord?’
 
memorial to Fr Slavko Barbaric
 

It was hard work. In all, it took us three and a half hours to go up to the top and then come back down – but all the grannies, granpas and youngsters made it. The 11th to 12th Station was the most difficult with extra-large rocks that made huge steps necessary.



At the top there was the cross where we said a prayer. We had each carried a small stone from the base – in our hand, not in a bag or pocket - all the way to the top, and now we deposited it with the prayer and left both in the care of Our Lady. Some of the objects left at the cross were sad, the photo of the young boy, presumably dead or very ill, for example, and several of the pilgrims carried personal family burdens with them.
The cross bears a legend: To Jesus Christ, Redeemer of the human race, as a sign of their faith, love and hope, in remembrance of the 1900 years since the death of Jesus.

It was very still and peaceful at the top, a light wind was blowing and there were panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Many of the pilgrims sat alone, lost in reverie.
view of St James Church from Cross Mountain
 
making the way down the mountain...very carefully!
The route down was quicker but not much easier, it was a different challenge, mostly of keeping balance. All the grannies etc. made it!
 
Sadly, we passed one elderly gent who had fallen and badly hurt his head and his knee. Fifteen minutes later, I counted nine uniformed emergency personnel making their way up the mountain, four carrying a stretcher. I believe they may have been First Aid volunteers from Medjugorje.
When we were in the taxi (5 Euros) back to town, G and I remarked how well we felt; there was not the least fatigue, my bad knees and my painful broken elbow gave me not the slightest trouble on the climb. As we devoured our waiting breakfast with relish, G, who eats sparingly and is famously self-disciplined - and slim as a result - went for seconds. Now, that’s a miracle!

Mass was in the Conference Hall celebrated by an Indian (I think) priest serving in an Irish parish who sang much of the Mass. I’m close to being tone deaf myself but the priest was slightly better. A different priest then offered me the Host from the chalice saying ‘Blood of Christ.’ I thought I was hallucinating – that’s what getting up at 4am does to you – but there was nothing wrong with the local choir (of three persons) who were outstanding, including one lady who both sang and played the violin.

 
Evening Mass at 7pm in Croatian at the outside altar with several thousand present – and an orchestra of 20-25 players plus a choir of 40 – wonderful! The simultaneous radio translation into English kept cutting out – I think my radio is faulty – and I had a problem relating the priest’s introductory remarks about men needing liquid courage to go to a dance with homily remarks about getting closer to Jesus. Never mind, the crowd were commendably devout as usual, and the priests distributed Communion effectively to the vast crowd, several persons on their knees waiting for the wafer. The sense of reverence was palpable.
At 9pm it was completely dark. We met in front of the statue of the Queen of Peace and one of our tour priests blessed our candles and we then processed to the special area set aside for burning candles with its large crucifix faced by rows of candle holders. There are benches behind for supplicants to sit and pray in front of the crucifix as their candles burn. The area is usually very busy – and unusually, everything is carried out in complete silence.

Fr Martin catches up on his sleep after a tough day
Afterwards, the priests led us to another part of the site where there are large tiled representations of each of the Mysteries of Light. As we walked there, a large group passed us, two abreast, holding up their flickering candles and chanting a hymn to Mary in some Slavic Language. Magical. Our own Rosary was special too, the area was silent expect for the chirping of crickets and the distant roar of traffic (chattering Italian worshippers going home were quietened by the tour guide putting a finger to his lips). After each mystery a singer accompanied by her guitar sang a relevant hymn, her beautiful voice shimmering in the air – and this being an Irish audience, soon had a choral accompaniment! Fr Martin, having led one of the mysteries took the opportunity to catch up on some sleep...  

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